Iraq lite
I got my first taste of Iraq today - albeit at the Embassy here in Amman. J, AC and I went to check out the visa situation, since reports have gone around that everyone, even US citizens need visas now.
We first walked into a crowded room and waited in the visa line for about 10 minutes before being escorted to a larger waiting room. There were probably at least 50 people milling around, either trying to get visas or renew their Iraqi passports. The one guy who appeared to be in charge was in and out of the room, occasionally giving applicants information that would pacify them for a few minutes. There was also an older man sitting behind a desk on the other side of the room, but his chief role seemed to be chatting with the folks in the waiting room and pretending he had an official duty. When J asked him a question about the visa process, he simply told her to go ask someone else.
After about an hour of sitting around (enough time to finish the crossword puzzle in The Jordan Times), we were led into another building where I guess the real Consular Office is located. After passing through a few offices where the chief activity appeared to be watching the Arabic music video channel, we were seated in an office decorated with furniture that looked like it came from a Castle and Palace Discount Furniture Store. Really ornate, over-stuffed furniture that was comfortable, but you know was made on the cheap. The consular officer finally met with us and told us what we already knew: our Serbian colleague didn't have the right permission letter to get a visa to Iraq. Also, I guess US citizens don't need visas yet, but you still have to have the US Embassy send your info to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, who will then inform the airport authorities, who will check you off their list when you land in Baghdad.
I'm currently scheduled for a flight to Iraq on August 23rd. We'll see what actually happens when I get there. Rules and regulations seem to change every day.

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